Whirly-Wheel di Firenze

My pink plastic whirly-wheel, about the size of a saucer, is the best purchase I have made in Firenze. This somewhat juvenile toy that tons of pushy men sell in all of the piazzas at night, has effortlessly launched me further into Italian culture than the pounds of pasta and liters of vino I have eagerly consumed.

The miraculous toy flashes light and sparks conversation, in Italian and English, all pleasantly unexpected. The first night I brought my bright pink toy to Piazza della Signoria. The lights whirled quickly, shooting high into the air as I excitedly circled its flashing and falling—doing my best to catch the little thing. Content with my self-amusement, I continued, perfecting my whirly-wheel technique. An awkward man from Bangladesh, who sold flowers in the piazza, approached me. He asked how much I had paid for my toy. I held it closely, both proud of my bargaining skills the previous day and worried that he was suggesting that I’d sell it.

“3 Euro.” I said proudly, knowing that all the merchants in the piazzas ask for at least five. It is the next question, however, that caught me even more off guard.

“Are you married?” He asked, as if this was a smooth, casual transition from topic to topic. I looked at him puzzled and humored, but mostly relieved that his interest had moved from my precious whirly-wheel. I laughed and replied,

“No, of course not! I am only 21.” This remark apparently shocked him as he explained in broken English that women where he was from were married with children by then.

The gem of knowledge I received as our conversation turned hesitantly back to my toy—and then to goodbye—was most intriguing. He told me to put Chapstick on the toy’s base to make the wheel fly higher. Still a skeptic, I decided to try.

While learning the tricks of the whirly-wheel—and acknowledging my ever ticking clock of youth—were helpful and entertaining, it is my second encounter that solidified the wheel’s spot on the ‘best purchases of Firenze’ list.

As I began night two of my whirly-wheel adventures, I noticed that there were far more people in the piazza this evening. This meant it was far more likely I would embarrass myself. My friend Katarina observed from a stone bench nearby. And sure enough, just in time for my eighth or so whirly-wheel landing, out step three guys—soon to be my new Italian friends. Andrea, Davide, and another Andrea laughed as they dodged the wheel, its little lights crashing at their feet. All three watched me as I approached them laughing, my blushing thankfully hidden by the evening. Not knowing what language I would speak, they all looked at me just smiling. I extended my whirly-wheel, suggesting that they should try. The first Andrea shot the wheel a few feet into the air and they all began laughing. Once they all had laughed and tried to work the tricky contraption, Andrea looked at me, still unsure of my country of origin. I smiled and said,

“Come ti chiami?” They each told me their names, relieved that I knew at least a little Italian. They jokingly asked if I sold the wheels. I laughed and explained that I was studying in Firenze for the summer.

The most intriguing part of this encounter was the eagerness in their effort to make friends with me, and my friend Katarina. The whirly-wheel had created a perfect situation for playful interaction with strangers. I wouldn’t suggest hitting just anyone on the head with a plastic wheel, but when the moment strikes, so can a friendship.

La prima cena che ho cucinato

So, with a moment's free time, I finally decided to cook my first authentic Italian meal. I'll admit I was partially inspired by the awesome cooking class Katie and I took at In Tavola, just across the Ponte Vecchio.

In our class, we made Italian dinner and dessert crepes (delicious). The chefs were quite handsome and very entertained by our initial fumbling in the kitchen. At the end of the evening, the chefs invited Katie and me to stay for a glass of wine, which of course we did. After a few hours of slowly cleaning the kitchen and brushing up our Italian, we made our way home full and smiley.


But a few days later, in my humble kitchen, I decided to tackle spaghetti al pomodoro e basilico and bistecca alla griglia, a Florentine specialty. Both turned out better than expected and my bruschetta was rather tasty. I am logging away all of these culinary gems in hopes of sharing these newly acquired skills with everyone back home.

I've noticed an unavoidable pattern of food-based posts, but it seems that food has been the focus since I've arrived. From the adjustments we've made--paying to sit or paying for water-- to the surprises we've discovered--friendly family-owned restaurants where the service is incredible-- meals have been the center point for much of my learning. Since I've arrived, restaurants have been one of the best windows into Italian culture.

Two places that have permanent places in my memory so far are Il Cantinone and I Che C'e' C'e'. Il Cantinone was one of our first sit down, full-course meals. We had read about it in one of our travel books and the experience was interesting if nothing else. We walked down a set of stairs into a little front room where we spoke to the host who asked us if we'd like wine while we waited. We kindly declined the wine and sat to wait. Less that a minute later another host came around the corner with four full glasses. Once we sat, starving and excited, we began to order... so much food that the waiter stopped us. Our first course, three different pastas for the table to share, was an adventure in itself. We ordered a seafood pasta that had what we were convinced had to be models from the movie Alien. When the server brought the second course, he accidentally spilled some steak juice on my pants. I wasn't nearly as worried as he was, but he rushed me into the next room and quickly sprayed a mystery substance on my pants and handed me a giant scrubber brush. At the end of the meal, after we had paid our check, we were sitting and chatting when the server brought over dessert wine and biscotti. We all looked up and he replied, "don't look at me weird," and scurried away. So, not the perfect meal, but by far an excellent group of people and an gorgeous dining room tucked away in a cosy wine cellar.


It would be hard for any restaurant in Florence to compete with I Che C'e' C'e'. Gino Noci, the owner, and his wife are not only the sweetest people I've come across in Florence, but they serve a mouth-watering dinner. From the moment I walk in, I feel like a special guest. Having only met Gino twice now, I am eager to go back again and again. The warm, friendly atmosphere makes every meal feel like he's prepared it just for you. And let's not forget, the food is great! He serves little deep-fried appetizers as a salty, crunchy start to the evening. The spaghetti al pomodoro is fresh and perfect. Everything that comes from his grill is mouth-watering. And, let's just say, you can't leave without a taste of 'Caterina de' Medici' (a chocolate flan with strawberries, that I'd personally kill for) and their panna cotta that Gino's wife will happily prepare right at the table. Gino and his wife are a delight, and the limoncello is always perfect. If you are hoping to experience a one of a kind, personal taste of Florence, I Che C'e' C'e' is it.

So, I have shared all of my culinary knowledge for now. Perhaps I will find another topic for blogging over the next few days... Until then, I'll be eating with the best of them.

Un viaggio per gelato

There is no doubt that walking through the streets of Florence immediately engages your senses. You're surrounded by ancient churches overflowing with culture and color, and trattorias whose windows are adorned with delicate pastries in beautiful displays. You hear street performers playing their instruments and locals chatting in the piazza. In the open markets, the ever-present aromas of fresh tomato and garlic waft by as butchers slice prosciutto and salame. With your senses of sight, hearing, and smell running at full speed, why not take a break for a cool cup of a Florence specialty that will engage your sense of taste. And if you're hungry for the sweetest taste of Florence, why not embark on your own personal viaggio per gelato.

Gelato is normally made with fresh fruits, chocolate, or other various sweets or nuts, such as cookies, coffees, or hazelnut. The ingredients are mixed and frozen to produce a dense, flavorful icy delight. Be aware, though, that in order to experience gelato at its finest, one must learn the secrets of this superb delicacy. The urge to walk into the first—and maybe for some of us, every—gelateria you see is a difficult urge to resist, but holding out for a few perfect bites is well worth the wait.

As you walk by the tempting displays, remember these bits of gelato wisdom. First, as you peer into the shop, look for metal containers. These tell you that it's freshly made rather than mass-produced gelato, which typically comes in plastic containers. Next, look for two tell-tale flavors: banana and limone. Neither should be bright yellow. If the banana is a light gray, the gelateria used fresh bananas instead of a powdered mix. Also, limone should be white, because gelato made with fresh lemon is a very bright white. If you’ve found a gelateria that meets these requirements, dive in.

If after hours of scrupulous gelato research and investigation you are curious to find arguably the best Florence has to offer, Vivoli is the place for you. This small shop is located just two blocks from Santa Croce on Via Isole delle Stinche. Recommended by Let’s Go Travel, as well as several gelato veterans, this quaint gelateria will surely satisfy your needs. Vivoli offers a variety of flavors including banana (gray in color, of course), melone (cantaloupe), and cioccolato con caffè.

I have two more suggestions for those on their own personal viaggio per gelato. First, try flavors that you think you might not like. Some of the stranger local flavors, such as ricotta and fig (which together taste remarkably like cheesecake) turn out to be mini-adventures in and of themselves. Also, hop into a few chocolate shops and ask if they have gelato. Even if a shop has gelato that isn’t on display, it’s usually worth trying.

Beginning your journey to discover the perfect gelato may seem intimidating at first, but the work—if you must call it that— pays off. A perfect scoop of melone or limone gelato will surely give you the sweetest taste of Florence.